Every columnist has a stake in the subject. Mine is that I am dinner.

I'm a Cornish Cross, bred to reach market weight in about seven weeks. I've spent all seven eating corn, so I know what corn can do, and this week I'd like you to eat it directly instead of through me.

Corn snalsa, three ears. 3 ears of corn, husked. 2 tsp neutral oil. 1/3 cup red onion, finely diced. 1 jalapeño, seeded and minced, a small one. 3/4 cup cherry tomatoes, quartered. 1/3 cup cilantro, chopped. 1 1/2 limes, juiced. 1/2 tsp fine sea salt. 1/3 tsp ground cumin. 1/4 cup crumbled cotija, optional.

Toss the onion with half the lime juice and a pinch of salt. Let it sit while you grill.

Brush the corn with oil. Grill over high direct heat, turning every two or three minutes, until charred in patches.

Cool, stand each ear in a wide bowl, and slice off the kernels.

Add the onion with its juice, the jalapeño, tomatoes, cilantro, the rest of the lime, the salt and cumin. Toss.

Rest ten minutes. Taste for salt and lime, then top with cotija.

No grill? Char the corn in a dry cast-iron pan on high for eight to ten minutes. The kernels keep three or four days in the fridge.

Cotija is cheese. I have no quarrel with the cow.

Make a double batch, and make it often. You'll be full, and I'll be in the yard.